
After a well-needed night’s sleep, many of us were delighted
at breakfast with our highly anticipated first cup of Costa Rican coffee.
Shortly after breakfast, we set out for the first destination on our itinerary
– the Pacuare Nature Reserve on the Caribbean coast. En route, we tried to take
a little trip through the centre of San Jose. However, our brief tour of the
city was thwarted because roads going into the city had already started to
close in anticipation of massive celebrations that afternoon to welcome home La
Selección (the national soccer team returning to a hero’s welcome after their
great performance at the World Cup). We were all really impressed by the spirit
of pride that was palpable in the city.
Heading out of San Jose, we traversed a beautiful national
park which led us through a cloud forest and rain forest. Our eyes were glued
to the windows in awe at the incredible variety of greenery and amazing size of
the foliage. The variety of geographical zone that we have already experienced
is quite novel for most of us. In the space of a relatively short drive, we
moved from the very temperate central valley where San Jose is situated,
through the chilly and damp cloud forest, into the humidity of the rain forest,
finally moving into rising temperatures and humidity as we approached the
eastern coast. For the last leg of the trip to the Pacuare Nature Reserve, we
took a small boat through canals leading to the coast. Along the way, we were
on the lookout for crocodiles, but only managed to spot some turtles sunning
themselves as well as a few beautiful birds.
Our destination, the Pacuare Nature Reserve, was opened in
1989 in an effort to protect the breeding ground of Leatherback, Green, and Hawksbill
turtles from poachers. It still maintains this function of protection today,
having reduced the incidence of poaching to 1%, and it also functions as a
research centre for biologists from all over the world. The reserve encompasses
six kilometres (approximately four miles) of beach. The compound where
researchers, guards, and other guest and workers stay operates very sustainably,
using only solar power. This offered us a completely off-the-grid experience, a
welcome change from our very connected lives.
Our first day at the reserve, we learned about the breeding
habits of the various turtles and observed some of the research happening at
the reserve. One particular research project is studying the effects of global
warming on the sex selection of the turtles which is determined by temperatures
in the nest. As temperatures rise more female turtles are being hatched, which
could eventually lead to an insufficient number of breeding males in years to come.
As we learned, we also had the incredible opportunity to watch four hatchlings
make their amazing first journey into the ocean. The independence and
perseverance of these newly born turtles was truly admirable. We were an
enthusiastic cheering committee as they made their way.
Later that evening under only the light of the moon, we went
on a nightly patrol with a researcher to watch for hatchlings and turtles who
have come to nest. The nightly patrols serve both a research function and as a
deterrence to poachers. While we were not able to see any turtles nesting, we
did see the tail end of more hatchlings making their way to the ocean as we
finished our three and a half hour patrol. It was a satisfying way to end a
busy day filled with new sights, sounds, and experiences.
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